Gift from the Sea

A wave truly is a gift from the sea**. We are baking in a heat wave right now in Southern California, and the only respite is water. I have not been out to photograph waves for a really long time, so I decide to go out this morning since even if there is no surf it is too hot to go running or work out at the gym. At 7am I arrive at my favorite barrel spot, the one place that almost always has at least a little bit of hollowness even when the waves are tiny. I am pleasantly surprised by beautiful conditions. The water is pure glass, there is not a speck of wind, and decent little tubes are coming in every few minutes. Wow, only one guy is out here, while up the road at Cardiff Reef I can see a ton of people including what looks like 10-15 sweepers. How nice to have this little stretch of beach so empty. The water felt great, cool but not cold. I bagged a few wave photos in spite of the fact I am using my slowest-frame-rate camera body (1DsII). Labor Day will be here soon and that, along with the start of school, really clears out the water. The best months of surf are just ahead. I love living near the ocean.